Bulgan, Naadam, and Aerig

After Naadam in UB, we, nix Tim and Yelena, as mentioned below, traveled across the countryside to Bulgan City (Bulgan Hot). We stayed with a lovely woman named Ganaa, a former Fullbright who taught us Mongolian language last spring. She obviously loved Bulgan, from all the things she told us about it. We were ridiculously excited to be able to go and see the place she called home.

One of the most important things about Bulgan, she had told us, was the aerig. Aerig is fermented mare's milk. And Bulgan, it turns out, makes some of the best in the world. Bulgan is so proud of their aerig that part of the opening ceremonies to their Naadam celebration was a dance tribute to the drink, the making of it, the consuming of it, and games played while consuming it. During the summers, many people give up solid foods, according to Ganaa, and just consume aerig.

This hadn't been the first time aerig had been present during this trip. While in Inner Mongolia--or was it Saen-Shed?--we'd had the opportunity to try camel aerig. This is an experience I don't intend to replicate. Along the research trip to the countryside I went on, we would stop and get aerig from everywhere we could. Well, once the other girls learned I hadn't really had it before.

The drink itself tastes a bit like watered down milk and yeast. But it's better than if you took watered down milk and mixed it with yeast. The milk here just has flavor, moreso than American milk anyway. The drink also reminds me a bit of yoghurt. When I first had it, I wasn't a fan, but it grew on me.

We brought some back to our apartment from Bulgan. It was supposed to be for Allison, Tim, and Yelena, but it was really for everyone. It lived in the fridge for a while. I kind of like it cold, but I think that's not really how you're supposed to drink it.